Holy Moley Brewing Co. in Dennison, Ohio, is set to celebrate its third anniversary in January 2024, marking a significant milestone for owner Gary McCullough. After a 30-year career at Timken Co., McCullough transitioned to brewing, realizing a long-held dream of combining his passion for craft beer with the community spirit of his hometown.
Located in a historic building dating back to 1897, Holy Moley Brewing Co. has transformed an old church into a vibrant brewing space. McCullough, who spent over 25 years as a home brewer, felt an immediate connection to the property when his realtor suggested it. “I knew instantly this was the place,” he recalled. The building had previously been owned by a hospital and was in good condition, allowing for a smooth transition into a brewery.
Community Support and Unique Offerings
Operating in a historically dry town, McCullough faced initial challenges in gaining permission to sell alcohol. He conducted a house-to-house canvassing campaign, which resulted in community support despite some opposition from a small faction concerned about the use of a church for brewing. “Very little pushback,” he noted, emphasizing that the majority of residents embraced the idea.
Holy Moley Brewing Co. offers a variety of craft beers, with a particular focus on themes related to the town’s rich rail history. One of the standout selections is the Jerkwater Pale Ale, inspired by the term “jerkwater,” which refers to towns without water towers that relied on railways for water. “The trains never stopped, and the town never prospered,” McCullough explained, highlighting the beer’s connection to local history.
In addition to beer, Holy Moley also produces wine, offering eight to nine varieties, and has plans to expand its offerings. McCullough is considering hosting bourbon tastings and Sunday brunches featuring mimosas. The brewery’s unique atmosphere is enhanced by its stained glass windows, which provide a peaceful setting for patrons.
Future Plans and Community Engagement
As part of its growth strategy, Holy Moley plans to introduce a kitchen by spring 2024, featuring sandwich platters and gourmet flatbreads, catering to the local demand for food options. “We want to generate more traffic just because we’ll have food, get people to stick around longer and drink more beer,” McCullough stated, emphasizing the importance of attracting visitors to the small town.
With a maximum of 12 taps and no distribution, the brewery relies on local patronage, drawing about 70 percent of its clientele from nearby New Philadelphia and other surrounding areas. McCullough’s right-hand man, Shane Theuret, plays a crucial role in the production process, which takes place in what was once a fellowship hall in the church basement. “This is my last brewery. We’re not going anywhere,” McCullough affirmed, hinting at the potential for future expansion.
Holy Moley Brewing Co. has established itself as a community hub, offering not only craft beers but also a welcoming atmosphere with board games, television screens, and upcoming events to engage locals and visitors alike. The brewery’s mug club, available for $100 annually, provides members with perks such as 20-ounce pours and exclusive access to events.
As Dennison continues to evolve, Holy Moley Brewing Co. stands as a testament to the power of community support and the enduring appeal of craft brewing in small-town America. With plans for further development and a dedicated clientele, the future looks bright for McCullough and his brewery.
