The fashion world witnessed a remarkable showcase as Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection at the prestigious Musée Picasso. The event marked a significant return to the venue, which previously hosted his debut collection in September 2017. Over the past eight years, Jacquemus has evolved from a promising talent into a formidable independent label, with flagship stores now located in cities such as New York, Los Angeles, London, and Paris.
Jacquemus’s latest collection pays homage to his ongoing fascination with Paloma Picasso, the daughter of the renowned artist Pablo Picasso. Inspired by a powerful black-and-white photograph taken by Helmut Newton, Jacquemus aimed to capture the essence of a strong woman, blending elements from various decades into a cohesive vision. “I wanted to have this strong woman, the spirit of the ’80s, the cut of the ’50s, and the sensuality of the ’90s,” he stated.
The collection represents a departure from Jacquemus’s previous show, which was a personal tribute to his Provencal roots and his late mother. The new direction is characterized by elegant tailoring and structured silhouettes. The midi-length garments feature a basque silhouette at the hips and pleated hems, with lapel-less jackets and raglan shoulders, exuding a retro formality that is both modern and striking.
Models showcased the collection with a sense of confidence, wiggling up the museum’s marble stairs with hands on their hips. The emphasis on exaggeration is evident, yet Jacquemus masterfully highlights the natural lines of the body through clingy knits. Among the standout pieces were hourglass dresses crafted from velvet fish intarsia in bold polka dots, alongside solid butter yellow and black options adorned with deep looped fringes.
On the men’s side, Jacquemus infused a sense of whimsy, pairing smoking jackets with playful boxers and adorned blousons featuring multicolored dots and feathers. The collection also showcased a white tuxedo jacket with asymmetric black lapels, hinting at potential award show appeal.
The grand finale paid tribute to Picasso’s iconic one-shoulder dress, complete with a glass element that conceals while maintaining allure. This visually striking moment is likely to capture the attention of young fashion enthusiasts, many of whom may be unfamiliar with the original image but will undoubtedly seek it out, inspired by Jacquemus’s interpretation.
As Jacquemus continues to carve his own path in the fashion industry, the Fall 2026 collection serves as a testament to his creative evolution. Rather than simply revisiting history, he is actively writing his own narrative, challenging conventions while celebrating the artistry of fashion.
