Thanksgiving is a time for family, gratitude, and culinary traditions, but a debate simmers beneath the surface: which pie reigns supreme, pumpkin or sweet potato? In Flowood, Mississippi, local bakeries are at the center of this discussion, stirring up preferences that reflect deeper cultural ties.
Both pies share similarities in color and texture, deriving from a common ancestor: the European carrot pie. However, customer choices often reflect regional preferences. While some swear by the traditional pumpkin pie, others advocate for the sweeter taste of sweet potato pie. “Pumpkin,” stated Lori Robinson, a customer at Sugar Magnolia Takery. “My mom cooks it every Thanksgiving, Christmas, every time. It’s way better than sweet potato.”
At Sugar Magnolia Takery, owner Elizabeth Arnold crafts both varieties. She notes that the difference primarily lies in the spices used. Sweet potato pie incorporates white and brown sugar, making it notably sweeter, while pumpkin pie boasts a more robust spice profile. “Sweet potato pie. All day,” declared Xavier Pittman, another patron. Notably, sweet potato pie tends to outsell pumpkin in Arnold’s bakery, aligning with the culinary preferences of the southern United States.
Historical Context and Cultural Significance
The popularity of sweet potato pie is particularly noteworthy in the South, where it holds significant cultural and historical importance. Culinary author Adrian Miller, also known as the “Soul Food Scholar,” emphasized that sweet potatoes are deeply rooted in Southern culture, history, and economy. “If there were to be a Mount Rushmore of soul food desserts, sweet potato pie would definitely be there,” Miller stated.
Conversely, pumpkin pie is often associated with the northern part of the United States. This cultural divide has led to stereotypes, suggesting that pumpkin pie is a favorite among white Northerners, while sweet potato pie is cherished by Black Southerners. Yet, for culinary historian Michael W. Twitty, the issue transcends mere preference. He argues that the debate over which pie is superior is more about identity than culinary tastes. “We can have fun with good-natured ribbing between regions and cultures,” Twitty remarked. “At the same time, don’t let it get too serious to the point where it’s like hard, fast markers of who you are, who I am, who we are.”
Twitty, who grew up in Washington, D.C., carries Southern roots dating back to the 17th century. He recalls Thanksgivings filled with homemade sweet potato pies. The connection between sweet potatoes and Southern Black culture can be traced back to slavery, where sweet potatoes were a staple for many enslaved individuals. This accessible food was similar to the yams and cassava integral to African diets. Enslaved cooks are credited with perfecting the sweet potato pie recipe, even though Europeans were the first to attempt such a dish.
The debate surrounding these two pies may also be linked to historical access. Twitty suggests that while some believe the abolitionist movement limited the spread of sweet potato pie in the North, the reality is likely simpler. “The North didn’t have access to the same types of sweet potatoes that we think of today,” Miller explained. Early Americans in the North had white-fleshed sweet potatoes, which were more mealy in texture. Consequently, pumpkin became the dominant choice in those regions.
Modern Traditions and Evolving Preferences
Despite historical divides, contemporary traditions reveal a more nuanced reality. Twitty noted that culinary stereotypes do not hold true across many communities. He and Miller both grew up enjoying both pumpkin and sweet potato pies during Thanksgiving, showcasing the evolving nature of these culinary traditions. “There will also be somebody, every single day, every single year who will break the rules,” Twitty added, highlighting the blending of cultures and preferences.
As Thanksgiving approaches, the debate over pumpkin and sweet potato pie continues to spark lively discussions. Whether one prefers the comforting spice of pumpkin or the rich sweetness of sweet potato, both pies embody a rich tapestry of cultural heritage and personal history. Ultimately, the choice may reflect individual taste, family tradition, and regional identity, making this culinary debate a delightful aspect of the Thanksgiving celebration.
